Hello people.

Hope you've all had a lovely weekend so far..?

To finish it off (just right) we thought we'd post an old fave on the @clobbercalm site as tonight marks the fourth edition of a post on bigger fits. Michael aka @bigdudeindenim has posted some gold so far on the subject of denim fits for a bigger waistline or a wider pit-to-pit measurement and tonight he adds to that...

...I shall now hand the mic over to Michael aka @bigdudeindenim as he gives us a his insights into the pitfalls around sizing when choosing your raw. Enjoy!

Cal @clobbercalm

In my last blog post, I recommended some great companies that make clothes in larger sizes. For this piece I thought I might focus on how to avoid the sizing pitfalls out there when it comes to dealing with tagged sizes.

Many higher end heritage brands carry XXL and some even go up to XXXL. But when you look at their actual shirt or jacket measurements, you may find those tagged sizes are quite misleading.

A common example of this can be found with 3Sixteen’s beautiful shadow selvedge Type 3 denim jacket. This is a beautiful piece of clothing that get’s better and better with each wear. And they carry it in sizes starting from small all the way up to XXXL!! One would think a guy like myself, would be able to rock that XXL or at the least an XXXL right? Sadly, no. Their XXL fits more like a Large and their XXXL fits like a slim XL. I can button the top few buttons on the XXXL, but the waist is so slim, I cannot come close to buttoning it all the way down. Even the chest measurements are a bit tight on me. I prefer a 50” chest. This jacket has a 48” chest in XXXL. However it goes down to probably around 42” at the waist (belly button) level.

Many great Japanese brands have similar sizing issues for us bigger people. My buddy Jesus and I are around the same size in shirts/pants and we both recently tried on a few shirts from Iron Heart, a well known and well made Japanese brand. They also carry up to XXXL, and we ran into the exact same issues with their shirts as with 3Sixteen’s jacket. They are sized so slim, the only people I can imagine wearing their XXXL are very slim bodybuilders who work their chest/arms out more than anything else. For us chubby folk, this kind of sizing will never work. Slim fits do look great. On slim people. However any larger sized guys and gals are sadly left with far fewer options.

The main thing to remember as always, is to check the sizing charts to the best of your ability and if more info is needed…. Do not hesitate to call, or email, or direct message a company looking for the necessary information to make an educated purchase. Even better, go to a store and try things on when possible. The two examples I have listed have detailed size charts with pretty much everything you might need to know except…. the waist measurements.

Once again we are left with the problem of how to size clothing specific to differently shaped people. My desire for clothes that fit my shape shouldn’t trump the bodybuilder who wants a nice shirt and needs a very broad chest. Nor should his desire for that trump my desire for a shirt that will fit my chest and my chubby stomach. But what to do?

Slim cuts and Regular cuts are standard for companies like Old Navy and Gap. Of course generally those clothes are made with far cheaper materials and have far cheaper construction and lack the fit and finish of the better heritage brands out there. Many also keep manufacturing costs low by outsourcing the manufacture of their clothing to third world countries paying very low “slave” wages. This significant cost saving and corner cutting enables them to pattern different fits in different sizes.

Perhaps one day, the heritage companies we love and support will be able to make and sell various cuts in each size. In the meantime, always check those measurements. And for a list of heritage brands that do carry larger sizes that work, please check out my last blog entry here on Clobbercalm.

If you have any recommendations, suggestions topics for discussion, sizing and fit issues, or anything you want to hit me up about, feel free to reach out. Find me on Instagram. I am the one with the fairly self explanatory handle: @bigdudeindenim

~ Big Dude in Denim 24-5-18