Hope you’re all having a top week, so far, and that’s it from me! Over to a familiar face…
Hi all!! It’s Dave, @ruggedworkwear back again for another review on @clobbercalm blog. I have done reviews on some newer, smaller companies to this point. So this time around I’m shifting gears so to speak into one of the big time players in the raw denim industry. Ironheart Denim! In particular, their 777-XHS denim.
Sit back, crack open whatever your favorite beverage of choice is, and consider the myriad possibilities of Iron Heart Denim. Cheers and Enjoy!
1. How did you come across Iron Heart Denim?
Like most raw denim fans, I had heard of Ironheart Denim a long while back. Prior to this denim, I had never tried any of their products. Last year I did the Project Threads and Fades 2017 with four other participants in which we each faded the same denim for a full year (check out the project on Clobbercalm Blog if you haven’t done so yet). After that project concluded on 12/31/2017 I sent the denim to Ben (@clobbercalm ) to hang on the wall at Clobbercalm Supply Company brick and mortar shop. So I was looking for a new denim project in November 2017 knowing the 2017 project was about to conclude. I discussed with Ben Woodhouse my denim brother from another mother in the UK. We traded ideas on about 5 different denim options for my next project in 2018. Ben was awesome in this process. Above and beyond customer service. We are very similarly sized and he tried on several pairs of raw denim jeans and posted pictures of them so I could see fitment. This was so very convenient considering he had the denim in UK and I live in USA and it’s not easy for me to stop in his shop to try on the raw denim options. After these pictures and about 180 questions (again, Ben, you are a true customer service heaven send buddy) I finally settled on the IronHeart 777-XHS denim for my 2018 fade project. I received the denim in late December, 2017 just in time to start wearing for the 2018 project. This will be the first review of many this year for this denim.
2. What caught your eye about them?
Last year, I was hard on the denim and it was a mid-weight denim. I adored that denim, absolutely, but as a mid-weight, it did stretch a lot and went from a slimmer fit to a little bit more of a relaxed fit. This year I wanted something that was a little slimmer (I have a bunch of relaxed fit denim) that wouldn’t stretch very easily, and I did want to try some heavy weight denim out. My heaviest denim previous to this IH denim was some 21 ounce and I really enjoyed that denim once it was broken in. In looking at the IH 777-XHS, it really fits the bill for what I wanted. It was heavier, (the heaviest IH offers I believe) so it would not really stretch much. And the IH denim is renowned for being very heavy duty and durable, with a 25 ounce option at the top of the pyramid so to speak from a durability standpoint. Finally, the fade potential of this denim really intrigued me.
3. What is the spec of the product?
This denim is officially the 777-XHS model and has the following characteristics:
Fabric - As mentioned, this is a true heavyweight denim fabric at 25 ounces. The “XHS” stands for “Extra Heavy Selvedge” due to the heavy weight of the denim. The denim is advertised as “Sanforized, but unwashed” right hand twill with indigo rope dyed warp and white weft. The warp is “super dark” indigo which I have noticed at the three month mark already has some strong honeycomb and whisker fades coming in. This IH fabric is a 25th anniversary commemoration of Roger Hatt at VMC denim store, which is a big Ironheart Denim store.
Fit - The fit is a super slim tapered cut. This really scared me at first due to the fact most slim fits don’t fit me right. If the thighs fit the waist and butt are way too big. If the waist fits, the thighs are way too small. This fit actually does a good job though with thigh fitment, definitely tight on me, but I could still fit into it in the thigh with the waist only being a tad big on me (1/2” at first). I have not washed these and I’m at the 3.5 month mark wearing these almost every day (maybe 6-7 days not worn thus far this year). The waist has since stretched a little bit so now is about 1” large on me, but I am wearing a belt so this is not an issue. I may hot soak the waist to shrink it a bit at the 6 month mark (Or whenever the denim starts to stink badly). Overall, I’m very pleased with the fitment considering I basically cannot use most slim fit denim and this denim definitely works on my body type. The inseam is very long, I measured at 39”. I have since had them hemmed by @scienceandkindness (check him out for denim work – he does awesome work) to only have a 36” inseam which I’m cuffing.
Lining - The rear pockets are lined in a white canvas type material for added durability. There is no other lining in the jeans.
Buttons - These are button fly jeans with hidden rivets.
Labour - The fabric is on the limit of what can be sewn by the IH factory due to the very heavy weight / dense fabric. IH says they had to insist upon the factory folks wearing protective gear because the sewing machines would randomly break/explode. Now that’s damn extreme indeed.
Other Details - The heaviest denim I have tried (formerly that was at 21 oz), this denim is not for the faint of heart. See break in details below.
4. Why is it a product we should search out and buy?
If you like heavyweight denim, want a break in challenge, or love slim fit, consider this denim. The fades are coming in strong at 3 months, and the denim absolutely has brilliant fade potential from what I’m observing so far. Regarding break in, I was looking for a challenge and indeed these were a challenge. The first time I tried these on, I was sweating before I actually even tried to button them. They were definitely tight, but I knew I could stretch them at least a little bit, so I decided to take the plunge. Once I actually got them buttoned (it took 20 minutes, seriously) my thumbs hurt for a couple days trying to work the buttons through the various button holes. Now this might sound horrible, but the pain was very well worth it. This denim is said to take 60 wears to break in. And I consider mine broken in. It has stretched just enough in the thighs and even in the waist some so now it is very comfortable. Oh and the buttons are like butter now when I button up. I cannot say enough how impressed I am by the construction of the fabric and jeans. It looks like these are lifer jeans and will last easily a decade or more. No joke.
5. Where is it available?
I picked mine up at @Clobbercalm Supply Company as mentioned. You can also check out IH on their website https://www.ironheart.co.uk/
6. What’s the price of the product?
~ Notes ~
This denim is the real deal and if you haven’t heard about IH you should definitely check them out. They originally focused on biker type apparel but now have evolved with so many cuts/fits they have options that work for pretty much any and every kind of denim head.
Well that’s it folks. I hope you enjoyed reading about my latest fade project and this IH 777-XHS denim. I will be providing updates as the fade evolution progresses this year on this beautiful denim so stay tuned!!
~ Dave Mathias 15-4-18